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The RT Captains Cap
Indigo Dyed 100% Cotton Ribbing woven in downtown LA. The ribbing resembles denim in that the indigo will fade naturally overtime. The cap is cut long so you can adjust the length and size of the the roll…if you’re in to that sort of thing. I will be sewing up a limited number of hats this week. They will be available at my store starting this weekend for $45.00
For those suckers who have an iPhone Follow me on INSTAGRAM @karlthoe
DBL SPECIAL
It’s a new year and I wanted to start it off right. I was able to procure a few more yards of this amazing ring-spun indigo dyed 12oz denim from kurabo mills. I bring a limited run of the Double Indigo Work Trousers that I released last year. They will have some unique subtle tweaks to them and be individually numbered. Pre-order will be closing Sunday Night. This is going to the first of many pre-sale and limited edition offerings this year. Be sure to sign up on the mailing list so you’ll know what’s coming out of the Rogue Territory workshop throughout the year.
Pics compliments of Ryan Plett he’s wearing a size 30.
CO-OP Suede Wing Tips
Just got these form Barney’s Co-op on sale. They’re a slate grey, suede leather wing tip. the thing that really sold me on these was the sole. I probably would have passed them by if they had a standard leather sole. Can’t wait to get these dirty and broken-in!
The RT Ar-G Trousers
The Ar-G Trousers – I made these pants a few days before I left on my trip to Argentina. The buttons and patch are temporary (I’d like the buttons to be sewn on and the patch to be a smaller woven label) as is the center back seam which would normally be a feld seam (I was a bit lazy) anyway the fit is pretty much the same as the Stanton, but the leg opening may be a little bit smaller.
Specs -
Fabric – Khaki and Olive Green 11Oz twill – Pocket Lining – 8Oz Indigo Chambray – Continuous Fly (one piece)
The RT Safari Short
So I’m off to Argentina in a week and it’s HOT there. So I thought to myself, ‘self, let’s make some shorts for the adventure.’ So I came up with the Safari Shorts. I love this German Raindrop Cammo so I couldn’t go without making a pair with that fabric. And for the second pair, I wanted to do something a little different (at least for me). Brown corduroy and Japanese Selvage chambray…why not? Love it? Hate it? Let me know!!!
Ray Barbee – 20 years!
Just released – Ray Barbee Vans Vault Collection
Ray Barbee XX Years from Proper on Vimeo.
Iconic – Eames Furniture
The Story of Eames Furniture: Marilyn Neuhart with John Neuhart – Interview from Gestalten on Vimeo.
RT Sks – Destroyed
about 6 months of non-stop beat the snot out of the jeans wear…no wash.
These are my buddy Phill’s jeans who also happens to be the dapper man in the RT lookbook. He knows how to destroy denim.
RGT by Rogue Territory
RGT Spring/Summer 2011 Collection.
I’m so super excited to introduce a new line of clothing under the Rogue Territory name that I’m calling RGT. RGT is an extension of Rogue Territory but focuses on more than just denim. It’s a full collection of tops and bottoms, outerwear and accessories. The line has modern fits and styles with a touch of vintage Americana and a touch of military influence. I’ve spent a lot a time making sure that the attention to detail and time that I put into RT has been put into RGT. You’ll see modern and vintage sewing techniques implemented throughout. Each year I’ll highlight a cool deadstock or vintage military print. The first fabric I chose is a deadstock 1950s German Paramilitary Raindrop Cammo. It will be highlighted throughout the line as pocket lining, shirts, pants, shorts and hidden patch pockets. (example below)
Denim made by hand – Momotaro Jeans
I know this is old and I’m sure eveyone’s seen it before, but I’m just in love with this loom!
Introducing the "Max" Style# 000000000001 Lot# 0000001
The Max Special. For those who don’t know, Max is my right-hand man, he pretty much helps me with everything – Custom jeans, product development, shipping shit…whatever it takes to get the job done.
This is Max’s first pair of jeans. He designed them, drafted the pattern, picked out the denim, and sewed them up…with a little help from me.
Here’s some specs -
Denim: 14.5oz Japanese Selvage from DOVA
Details: Selvage on the fly and coin pocket. iphone pocket is made out of 6oz sun tanned cowhide.
Rogue Territory featured on Frank 151
Frank 151 teamed up with Scion to put on a new kind of fashion show. We’re stoked that Rogue Territory got to be a part of it Click Here to check it out.
RT Work Trousers Done Right
My buddy over at youhavebrokentheinternet, Ryan Plett, hooked it up when he jumped in the studio and took some amazing shots of himself in his DBL Indigo Work Trousers. If I remember correctly he’s wearing a size 29 (correct me if I’m wrong Ryan) and he makes them look damn good. Thanks Ryan!
Introducing the New Sk
As you can see there are 2 pairs of jeans in these shots…the broken in ones are a sample pair of Stantons I’ve been wearing non-stop for about 5 months (most recent wear pics to follow) the raw ones are my newest Sks. NOTE* the denim between the 2 pairs is different so the broken in jeans do not reflect how the newest Stanton and Sks will break in.
I wanted to share a few of the updates I made to the newest batch of both the Stantons and the Sks with you so here I go.
Jeans are made out of a 14oz Japanese Selvage denim from Nihon Menpu Mills in the Okayama Prefecture of Japan. they are ring spun and dyed with 100% pure indigo. the denim is sanforized and doesn’t shrink or stretch more than .5″
I have included tailored belt loops that are sewn into the waistband. they are also double folded for strength.
I have changed the leather on the patch. the new patch is a lighter cow hide patch, I chose to place the brand on the suede side of the leather to give it a different look. The patch was also sewn on at the same time as the single needle top-stitch on the waistband otherwise known as a continuous stitch or one sew.
All bobbin thread and keyholes are olive green.
Overall, I’m super excited about the newest offering. I think the quality of the denim is amazing. Please feel free to email me if you have any questions. Karl@rogueterritory.com
Thanks for looking!
There Will Be…
Blood was a movie I was really into (and still am) when I was working on the Rogue Territory logo with my GD Nic, Owner and Head Designer of Poached Branding Co.
I was set on the feather already so he came up with this poster and it sparked off a whole host of imagery that lead us to our final artwork.
I wanted to share it because I think it is such a rad image. Hopefully I’ll be able use it sometime in the near future
Great job Nic!
RT Custom is Not Dead
Hey guys I’ve been super busy and haven’t blogged in a while and wanted to bring you all up to speed. I closed my shop at American Rag and am in the middle of looking for a new space and restructuring the way that my custom program is offered so that it can be even better! ****** You may even see Rogue Territory Custom in more than one location in the near future.****** At the moment I am not taking on new custom clients but am happy to add any interested party to my Custom Client Waiting List, You will be the first contacted when I am up and running again. There’s a lot of cool stuff that I’m working on and can’t wait to share it with you. Thanks for all your support and I promise I’ll do a better job of keeping you all in the loop.
RT X CH
About a month ago a very special client approached us to help them with a project they were working on.
-The client, Cafe Habana, a mainstay in New York City dining. Best Cuban food I’ve ever eaten.
-The project, to make cool functional aprons out of recycled fabric for the staff that will be working at their newest location, which will be opening shortly in Malibu.
Being big fans of Cafe Habana of course we were stoked to be involved.
When we heard ‘recycled’ we immediately thought vintage. Max, my apprentice, was the project lead on this so he ran around to all the vintage fabric suppliers in town and pick up some amazing stuff. Vintage hickory, chambray, oil cloth, and canvas. He played around with a few different variations and designs till we finally got something that we were happy with. The final product incorporates vintage hickory, vintage oil cloth, and rinsed 12.5oz Selvage denim from Cone Mills.
We were stoked to be a part of this and can’t wait to see them in action.
RT Utili-Pant Washed
I wanted to see how the Utili-Pant would look after a cold soak soooooooo I went ahead and did just that and wadded them up for good measure.
My Project
So I made myself a pair of Stantons about 3 months ago. I’ve been wearing them about 5 days a week since then. These pics were taken about 2 months in. The denim is super dark so I took outdoor and indoor shots to try and capture the actual color and fading contrasts.
Here’s some specs -
Denim- 15oz Raw Japanese Selvage
Hand silk screened 8oz twill pocket bags
Pen pocket – hidden label in left back pocket
OUTDOOR SHOTS
INDOOR SHOTS
RT Utili-Pant
The Rogue Territory Utili-Pant prototype -
Fit – Work Trouser
Denim – 12.5oz Brown Kaihara
Details -
Fully lined front and back pockets
Coin pocket & pen pocket
Felled inseam and side seams
The Stanton completes any look
Brad over at CWAC put together a great look for February.
Shaun, creator of port authority LA can’t wait for Spring.
RT @ Need Supply Co.
The RGT hits the east coast thanks to our friends over at Need Supply Co. located in Richmond Va. Available online and at the store. Anticipate the RT offering at Need Supply to grow in the coming months!
a.b.k. custom leather craft
I came across this post on all plaidout and was really inspired by Alya’s story. It’s artisans like her that really drive me.
RT Pocket Square
I hemmed a pair of old-ass washed chambray pants today. With the excess fabric I thought I’d give a go at a chambray pocket square…this is what I came up with. I think the next one I’ll use off-white thread.
Inspired by Styka
Adam Styka, born in Poland in 1890. He completed his formal education at the French Academy of Fine Arts, Academie de Beau Arts, and painted closely under the tutelage of his father, Jan Styka. Known as “the master of sunlight”. To me he is the master of the American West.
Ever since I can remember the Styka family’s art has been in my life. My great Grandmother was a patron of theirs commissioning two portraits and purchasing to my knowledge at least two original pieces of Adam Styka’s all of which my parents inherited. My parents were also big fans of the Syka’s work, they purchased four prints from Adam’s American Wild West collection. These are the pieces that I fell in love with. I can’t tell you how many hours I’ve spent staring at those prints throughout the years. To a certain extent that collection inspired the name and feel of Rogue Territory. They all really resonated with me for some reason, especially his piece of an American Indian chief titled – Indian Chief / Wódz Indiański, Oraibi, Arizona, 1949.
My parents knew how much I loved those prints so they gave them to me to hang in my shop.
Here are a few pieces from his American Wild West collection. I apologize for the size of the images.
The Dark Stanton – Prototype
Introducing the Dark Stanton – Prototype
Fit – Slim Straight
Denim – 13.5oz Kaihara Overdyed Wide Goods. Top finish is Dark Indigo
Thread – Black
Hardware – Matte Black Finish
I’m going to add these to the rotation and document how the denim breaks down. Any thoughts or comments are always welcome.
Images in naturally sunlight to be posted soon.
Aprons
Vintage Apron
Hercules Apron -
Denim Apron
Fincks Apron
Rogue Territory Aprons
First apron project made this one for a professional photographer. 12oz wax coated overdyed Italian denim.
Current project. 14.5oz Japanese Selvage (selvage I’m using in my newest production) White fabric is a vintage selvage duck canvas from WWII (i may have to make an apron entirely out of the canvas). I’m really interested to see how this breaks in.
More pics to come…
Step 2 – Cut it up!
When cutting your denim you need to make sure that you know the cuttable width of the fabric before you get your markers made so get out your measuring tape. Cuttable width refers to the width of your fabric. In the case of selvage denim you’re looking at anywhere between 29″ – 33″ this denim happens to 32.75″ wide if you care to know.
Cutting out the patterns may seem like an easy task but don’t be fooled. It takes time and skill. If your fabric isn’t cut correctly that will have a direct effect on the fit and overall look of the jeans.
Step 1 – So it begins…Production Round Dos!
I’m really excited about this newest offering. All styles will be made out of new Japanese 14.5oz sanforized selvage denim from Nihon Menpu mills in Okayama. It’s super inky indigo denim with loads of character. This denim breaks down fantastically, amazing contrast guaranteed.
I wanted to document a step by step blow by blow of what it takes to prep and actually go thru production on a small scale. I apologize for the quality of the images most of them will be taken with my iPhone.
Step 1 – Loading up the car and off to the cutters!
The Denim Debate has Launched!
Ryan Plett creator of you have broken the internet has created an amazing resource for denim aficionados and casual denim subscribers alike http://denimdebate.com. He brought together some great minds in the fashion world and the blogosphere to participate in a year long denim discussion. Each contributor is ‘sponsored’ by a brand and they will document the life of their jeans throughout the year. I have been fortunate enough to be able to sponsor Shaun Barneveld who is the creator of trimmed with gold above and port authority la both are really great resources for inspiration.
All of the above including denimdebate are recommended reading this year boys and girls.
Rogue Territory @ Dutil
True we’ve been there for a few months now but I thought it’d be cool to give a proper shout out to my friends at Dutil. New inventory to be shipped in 2 weeks!
The Israel Pant
A few weeks ago I met up with the guys at styleforum.com in New York. So we grab a couple beers and talk about, what else, denim. Natan starts talking about how he’s planning a trip to Israel this Summer and how he’d love to have a pair of selvage drop crotch chambray pants to wear. We chat about design, have a few more beers and call it a night. I get back to LA and all I could think about were those pants which we dubbed the “Israel pant” so naturally I drop everything I’m doing and get to designing aaaaaand this is what I came up.
good bye old friend
This manual single needle Singer machine has been with me from the beginning, but sadly she’s not able to handle the work load anymore. I’m looking for a good home for Betty if anybody is interested. I will miss you Betty you were a great friend…
XXX I must warn you that this next image is quite graphic viewers beware XXX
Rogue Territory Q&A w/ Selectism.com
I Sat down with Nick over at selectism.com to discuss Rogue Territory, Custom Jeans, and all things denim. Check it out by clicking on the image below.
