We had the fortunate opportunity to sponsor a fantastic new print publication called The Collective Quarterly, put together by our friends Jesse, Seth and Jay. The Collective Quarterly is a magazine about exploring. Each issue follows select craftspeople to an offbeat location, with the backdrop of the inaugural Issue 0 in Marfa, TX - a tiny West Texas town that is rich in modern art and architecture. They headed out with some talented and creative individuals, including our good friend/photographer/videographer extraordinaire Duncan Wolfe (who filmed our Paris elopement in 2012!). We outfitted the crew with some of our favorite Rogue Territory pieces, below are some inspiring images from the trip that capture what this magazine is all about: Exploration and Discovery. Issue 0: Marfa is available for purchase, or do yourself a favor and subscribe for a year's worth of enriching writing and imagery. WORDS // Leslie Yeung IMAGES // The Collective Quarterly
For the second installment of our Keep The Trade Alive poster series, we teamed up again with designer Ben Deter to build on the concept and design from the indigo-dyed posters we released last Fall. This time, we decided to explore a new material and color, as well as introduce a new design. Much like our core fits, the Stanton and SK that change fabrics from season to season, we decided to approach the posters in the same way. Linocut Process The posters were printed using linoleum cuts. Linocut is a printmaking technique, a variant of woodcut in which a sheet of linoleum is used for the relief surface. The design was cut into the linoleum surface with a V-shaped chisel, with the raised (uncarved) areas representing a reversal (mirror image) of the parts to show printed. Dying Process A 7 oz duck canvas was used to compliment the new array of Spring goods that feature the material. It is light and thin enough to print on and easily takes on the dye. Ben created a custom dye mix to produce a beautiful antique gold color. The color plays off the hue of the camel canvas used on the new Supply Jacket, Camel Stantons and Camel RK Trousers, while referencing the fresh vibrant colors of spring. All 40 posters were cut and dyed in batches then rinsed and left to dry overnight. Printing Process The linoleum sheet was inked with a roller and then impressed onto the canvas. Each sheet of canvas was printed using a custom mix of navy oil-based ink and then allowed to dry for a week. Because each one is printed separately by hand, no two prints are alike. Using linocut and canvas together really allow for a unique, handcrafted product that looks as if it has been aged over time. A huge thank you to Ben and his friends Garret and Adam for their hard work on this project! These limited edition canvas posters are available online for $50. Each is hand-numbered and signed by Ben Deter. WORDS // Ben Deter IMAGES // Ben Deter
Our Spring / Summer 2014 collection is all about the color palette. All the colors are complimentary across tops and bottoms, making it easy to mix styles and colors to build multiple outfits. Also after multiple years of testing and many iterations, we're excited to introduce all new styles to the Rogue Territory line up. The Field Jacket is our interpretation of a vintage light weight hunting jacket we came across while diving for vintage clothes a couple years back. We've made a few modifications to give it a fresh feel, like a slimmer fit, modified pocket design, a club style collar and accent bartacks. Some great additional details are the "pocket within a pocket" on the left chest and hidden phone pocket in the larger left flap pocket. Overall it's a versatile and functional piece that is perfect as your primary jacket in the cool Spring and Summer nights or even as an additional layer as the temperature drops below 50 degrees. We're introducing a new Pop-over shirt, which is a classic design with some slight design twists. Highlights include triple-needle chainstitched side seams, collar stand extension, and what has quickly become our signature chest pocket design. And of course the fabric! A beautiful textured brown chambray from Japan with a nice substantial weight to it. The first release of Spring / Summer 2014 will be available on our online store on 2.25.14 Keep eye out for the next release which will include 3 all new denim washes available in the Stanton, SK and Supply Jackets! We'll also be releasing Shorts in the 2nd drop, available sometime in March! WORDS // Karl Thoennessen IMAGES // Leslie Yeung
Many of you have asked what the Dark Stanton & Dark SK denim will fade like, so we reached out to our loyal customer and talented photographer Long Yau who has been wearing his Dark Stantons for about 9 months now. The denim is a 13.5oz dark indigo selvedge denim from Kurabo Mills in Japan. Another common question is if this is an indigo warp/indigo weft or indigo warp/black weft. Technically this is an overdyed denim, the yarn used is natural and the warp has been overdyed indigo and the weft has been overdyed black. As you can see from Long's photos, the jeans fade to a beautiful blue shade. We will have restock on all sizes of the Dark Stanton & Dark SK available in March. Long is also wearing our 14.5oz Indigo Supply Jacket, and for only 3 months of wear, it's coming along very nicely. This supply jacket, along with the 15oz Stealth supply jacket, will be making a comeback again this Fall. We'd like to give a BIG THANKS to Long for putting together these images and for his continued support of our brand! IMAGES // Long Yau
We're excited to announce the newest collaboration in our Keep The Trade Alive: Artist Series. Introducing the Natural Chromexcel Leather Card Case with Wool Blanket Inlay by Hollows Leather. This limited edition exclusive wallet is handmade by Nicholas Hollows in Minneapolis, Minnesota, available in limited quantities on our webstore for $135. Nick is a true craftsman. He takes the time to perfect his craft and makes simplicity and smart design look easy. About a year and a half ago, we started throwing around ideas about incorporating some fabric that we had into one of his pieces. A couple prototypes and lots of testing later, Nick came up with this inlay design card case combining this amazing wool blanket fabric and beautiful natural chromexcel leather from Horween. The mix of the texture in the wool and the rich color of the chromexcel makes this a truly special piece. We've been an admirer of Nick's work for years now, so we're excited to share more of his story. Here's a glimpse into the mind of the man behind Hollows Leather: Who or what would you say are the major influences on your work? I'm inspired by anyone pursuing their craft just for the sake of it. I'm much more interested in getting good at something than I am in building a brand or growing a business. A lot of my heroes are bicycle frame builders. I like the incredible details and understated style of Hufnagel, the no-bullshit practicality of ANT, and the impressive technique of Goodrich among many many others. I also have a soft spot for anyone who has a design that has remained unchanged for decades, like the Red Wing 877, Filson Cruiser, or the Duluth portage packs. It takes a lot of courage, especially in modern markets, to stick with a proven design and resist the urge to "innovate" constantly. How did Hollows Leather come about? I found a box of scrap leather and tools in my in-laws' garage, which had belonged to my wife's uncle. He was a leather hobbyist and a cop who died trying to stop a pharmacy robbery before either of us were born. My first leather project was a really basic wallet, and it actually went pretty well. It was ugly, but it was functional and I enjoyed the work, so I started growing my tool collection and made some more things for myself and for friends. Eventually I posted some work online and started getting requests for custom projects, and it grew from there. Why leather? What about working with leather do you enjoy most? I don't exactly know why leather. I feel a bit like leather chose me. It's a fun medium, but I think I could be just as happy working with something else, and if I ever have more time for hobbies I hope to try my hand at cloth, wood, metal, maybe even glass. I like that the ceiling is really high with leather. I've been making something almost every day for going on 7 years and I feel like I'm just getting started. I'll never run out of new things to learn. I also like how versatile leather is. I've barely scratched the surface. There's a whole world of skills and techniques around garments, footwear and luggage that I haven't really explored yet. Do you have a favorite leather or tannery you like to work with? Most of my leather comes from either Horween in Chicago, or Wickett & Craig in Pennsylvania. They both have great products, but the real challenge is picking the right leather for the right project. I'm a big sucker for Natural Chromexcel from Horween and Wickett & Craig's harness leather. I often wish that I could combine aspects of those two to create the "perfect" leather. What does your creative process look like and where do you find inspiration? My process involves a lot of crappy napkin sketches and slow, iterative experiments. I usually feel like I get 90% of a design right on the first try, but the last 10% is really important. It's slow, with a lot of really small tweaks and adjustments over time, but sometimes making a flawed design and putting it to use is the only way to discover where the improvement needs to be made, so it's worth it in the long run. I think the best designs come from necessity, and that may be why I'm so interested in history. I'm crazy about garment design from the Gold Rush, Great Depression, and WWII eras. There's a lot of inspiration to be found looking back through history. If you had to choose a favorite piece in your collection, whether it be something you bought/found/inherited or made, what would it be? I have a pair of custom White's made from Natural Chromexcel that are like a trusty sidekick. I have a stylus and modeling spoon from my original inherited collection of leather tools that's probably the most boring thing you could imagine, but I use it every day and can't live without it. I have a little cast bronze penrose triangle trinket that I made and usually have hidden in a coin pocket. Anything that carries some story, real or imagined, and just hangs around to remind you that life isn't mundane unless you let it be. When you're not making leather goods, what do you find pleasure in? I'm really into hiking, camping, cycling, reading, and combining those four things as often as possible. If I could do whatever I wanted all the time, I'd basically live like an adventurous hobbit. WORDS // Nicholas Hollows, Karl Thoennessen IMAGES // Nicholas Hollows
We're very excited to present our newest exclusive collaboration with Need Supply Co., a blanket-lined shawl collar version of our ever-popular Supply Jacket. This time the jacket is offered in a 13oz Dark Indigo Selvedge denim from Kurabo Mills, Japan. The Supply Jacket was first released exclusively with Need Supply at the Rogue Territory: Meet the Maker event hosted at Need Supply's Richmond, VA store in September 2012. Since that time, this style has quickly become a definitive piece on our collection. When we began discussing our next collaboration, we both saw the Supply Jacket as a great piece to experiment with. We've always wanted to make a blanket-lined jacket and this was the perfect opportunity to incorporate it into a staple element of our outerwear offering. Jacket Details // 2 exterior wool lined patch pockets Denim - 13.5oz Japanese red-line selvedge from Kurabo Mills Wool blanket lined body Japanese chambray lined sleeves Matte black branded buttons Available in limited quantities online at Need Supply and Rogue Territory webstores
We are very excited to share our newest project under our Keep The Trade Alive: Artist Series. This time, we've teamed up with Ben Deter, a designer who explores and practices the parallels between art, design and technology. Like Brian McMenamin, who we have collaborated with on several handkerchief designs over the years, Ben is a Rogue Territory customer. As we've come to know more and more of our customers through Instagram, we discover that many are very talented and passionate creatives who inspire us with the work they do. Ben had the idea to explore a Batik dying method to make hand-dyed indigo posters, inspired by an Instagram photo we posted of indigo-dyed wrapping paper. From there we collaborated on a poster design, featuring our "Keep The Trade Alive" slogan and our signature mountains graphic. Ben comments: I love the simplicity of the design, particularly the way the mountain and typography emerge from the sea of blue surrounding them. Ben used this amazing "slubby" Japanese kuzu paper to tie it back to the Japanese denim use in many of our products. The result is a poster with a rough texture and high quality feel, yet delicate and soft at the same time. THE dying process // To transfer the design to paper, Ben simply traced it using a lightbox. Then each letter and design element was hand-painted with melted soy wax, creating a barrier to the indigo dye. Next, each poster was individually hand-dipped into a bucket of indigo dye, and this is where the true wonder of indigo presented itself. When the paper is pulled out of the dye, it first appears a greenish-yellow color, slowly turns green-blue, and finally indigo blue. Some posters were dipped once, others twice, and some were painted with the dye using a foam brush, giving a nice variety of washes and variations. The indigo dyed posters were then hung to dry overnight. The next day, the posters were sandwiched between two pieces of newsprint, and the wax was heated using an iron. The melted wax gradually soaks into the newsprint, and you are left with the paper you started with. The iron also helps flatten everything out after the poster ripples from being soaked in indigo. The mountains were then filled in by hand using a white wax pencil in order to make them really pop off the indigo blue background and to give them a really nice hand-finished quality. A huge THANK YOU to Ben and his friends Adam and Chris for their hard work and creativity on this project, we are so pleased to offer this as part of our collaborative series. The limited edition posters are AVAILABLE ONLINE for $85, and only 10 were made. Each poster is hand-numbered and signed by Ben himself. WORDS // Ben Deter, Leslie Yeung IMAGES // Ben Deter
The Rogue Territory Indigo Work Trouser was the definitive product from our Inaugural Collection back in the Fall of 2009. This was the first pant we designed that was not a traditional 5 pocket jean. The design was meant to pay homage to work wear, denim's roots, and at the same time make it more modern and relevant for today. Our vision was to make a pant that a guy could wear with athletic shoes one day and work boots the next. We didn't want the pant to define the man, but rather the man to use the trousers to style it the way he chose. This is really our approach to everything we design. DESIGN NOTES // The loops with button closure on the front slash pockets are the most visible design details on the Indigo Work Trousers. When we were designing the denim trousers, we noticed that the pocket would pop up significantly when you sat down -- this was primarily due to the thickness of the denim. So we thought about ways to add a functional element that offered an option when sitting or standing to keep the pocket from popping up, while maintaining the sleek look of the trousers. After multiple prototypes, the result was the loop and button closure, the defining feature of this style. ADDITIONAL NOTE: The loop and button closure has 2 functions. 1) They keep the slash pockets closed (duh). 2) When the pockets are buttoned down, this actually makes the trousers sit higher on your hips because it tightens up the lap. Therefore you actually get 2 fits in one! The fully lined back pockets are the other distinguishable detail on these trousers. When you take a closer look, you'll notice that there's very little stitching on the pockets. This was intentional. We wanted to design a super clean back pocket that was reinforced, strong and functional, but still maintained the clean and understated look that makes these trousers so versatile. We refer to the Indigo Work Trouser as one of our most definitive designs because we believe it embodies the design ethos we strive for when designing a product for Rogue Territory. Our goal is always functionality and simplicity. We attempt to accomplish these two principals by studying construction details on vintage work wear and military garments. Then we ask ourselves, "How do we maintain the amazing functionality and essence that these details embody but make it more versatile and wearable for today's rad dudes and dudettes?" Well, the only way to accomplish this is in the drafting of the pattern. This allows us to break the design down, and once we have the building blocks of the product laid out in, we can then begin to piece it back together and build something that is simple and maintains the essence of the details that inspired us. WORDS // Karl Thoennessen IMAGES // Leslie Yeung
We're excited to introduce the newest article from Nihon Menpu Mills, woven in Okayama Prefecture, Japan. This is a beautiful 14.5oz Black Warp / White Weft selvedge denim. The weave construction and yarn character in this denim are the same as our signature 14.5oz pure indigo denim from Nihon Menpu. The cross-hatching in the denim lends to a really beautiful textured appearance. When working in black warp denim, it does take time and dedication, but when it starts to fade, you can achieve some really unique patterns and colors full of charcoal and brown highlights. As a new addition to the Rogue Territory product offering, we wanted to really showcase the beauty of this denim, so we've decided to finish the Black Warp in 2 different color threads. 1) Black Warp with camel thread (available in Stanton only) - the effect of camel colored thread on the Black Warp gives a more traditional look to the jeans. The texture of the Black Warp with the contrast of the thread enhances the overall character of the jeans over time. 2) Black Warp Tonal with black thread (available in Stanton and SK) - if you take a look at our collection, you'll notice that we like to offer tonal options in a lot of our products. We like to do this because we feel it is the best way to pay homage to the fabrics that we select. By using tonal thread, you allow the fabric to shine on its own. With no other colors or stitching to compete, the only thing to focus on is the beauty of the weave construction. Only as the denim begins to fade do you get to see all of our signature design and construction details such as our signature "lasso" stitch on the back pockets.
The inspiration for our FW13 collection started with a color pallet of swatches of fabrics we had. When we think about putting together a collection, the most important thing is that the colors and styles compliment each other. Anybody should be able to put together their own look and adopt their own style when choosing products from the collection. The Campus Jacket was the jump-off point for the collection. We've wanted to make a varsity jacket for a long time, it was just a matter of finding the right materials and colors. Once we locked down the concept for the jacket, all the other elements of the collection fell into place. We wanted to make sure that every pant and shirt added to collection could ultimately be worn with the Campus Jacket. When it comes to introducing new denim pieces, whether it be a Work Shirt, Supply Jacket, Stantons, SKs or RKs, it's always about choosing the right denim for the style. We always want the focus of the piece be put on the fabric itself - that should always be what people notice first. The design and construction details are the icing on the cake. Our excitement for creating products stems from the amazing fabrics we get to work with. Each piece of the collection has elements from work wear, vintage military, and American sportswear classics. Our whole approach is to keep some elements and cut others out in order to design pieces that are relevant and modern, but look and feel like those vintage garments we all love. Photography by Farhad Samari, featuring Blair from General Quarters.
For our latest web exclusive release, we've chosen an inky dark blue 8oz twill from Kaihara Mills in Japan. This beautiful fabric was not only chosen for its deep indigo color, but also for the unique light blue and cream colored stripes running through the fabric. Our signature triple needle chain-stitched work shirt was the perfect style for this fabric. The use of tonal thread makes the shirt feel more contemporary while still incorporating all the utilitarian features that make this shirt feel so substantial. The fabric will fade slowly over time. Don't expect to see electric blue whiskers though, the yarn is heavily saturated with dye, so it'll take time for you to see any contrast. We launched this exclusive work shirt at Denim Bruin in San Francisco, hosted by our friends at AB Fits. Thanks to everyone who stopped by and picked one up. For those not in the Bay Area, the work shirt is available for $185, while limited supply lasts! Photography by Farhad Samari
The Safari Short has been a staple of the Rogue Territory collection for a few seasons now. It was originally inspired by standard issue military trousers for the infantry personnel stationed in Vietnam. When designing, our approach is always one of pulling inspiration from many references, combining them and then simplifying. The Safari Short is a perfect example of this. The gusseted back pockets, the defining detail of the short, were pulled from a 1930s work shirt chest pocket. We mixed that gusseted pocket with the distinct front patch pocket of the infantry pant. When combined, the 2 details make for a super functional and very subtle design. When we started talking to the guys (Jesse and Jay) of the Coveted Man about their trip to Marfa, Texas and how they wanted to collaborate on a product inspired by that trip, we immediately started talking about shorts. Marfa in June can be hot, shorts are a must. The Safari Short was an obvious choice, but we wanted to do something to make it special -- to incorporate something that could be pulled from the Texan landscape. So we started talking patterns and how to incorporate them into the shorts. The end result was a custom pattern inspired by the traditional Navajo woven blankets that are a huge part of the mid-western culture and have been produced in Arizona, New Mexico and parts of Texas for over 200 years. To keep the clean aesthetic of the short we decided that the print was not going to be the main focus but used more as an accent. Applying the mid-western print is not easy. To print the 4 colors in the pattern, each color had to be lined up and screen printed separately. To have the pattern pop, we used a plastisol ink which is pretty bright initially, but after a few wears starts to fade perfectly. We’re really excited with the final product and feel that it fit in perfectly with the Marfa adventure. Photos by The Coveted Man
We recently teamed up again with our good friends at Need Supply Co. to release an exclusive summer-inspired collaboration called "Wash Me Over". This limited edition capsule collection includes 3 signature pieces in a beautiful washed out 6oz Japanese selvedge chambray from Kaihara mills. Our classic Jumper Shirt, Field Jacket and Officer Trousers have been enzyme washed and hand-distressed, so each garment in this collection is unique. Wash Me Over was inspired by work, wear and the passing of time. Each piece is meant to feel like it has its own story to tell through the functional and subtle details to the faded colors and well-worn feel of the fabric. I wanted this collection to feel familiar but new at the same time. Below are some images from Need Supply's summer lookbook titled Nowhere Fast, featuring the Field Jacket and Officer Trousers. SHOP COLLECTION NOW Photos by Ryan Plett
Our Spring/Summer 2013 collection incorporates a little bit of new and a little bit of the familiar. We brought back popular pieces, such as the Dark Indigo Supply Jacket in 10oz selvedge denim and the Raindrop Camo print, while introducing some new short sleeve chambray shirts, and two washes in our classic Stanton and SK jeans, a first-ever for Rogue Territory. The color palette is neutral, and each piece was designed to pair well with anything in our product line-up. Photography // Farhad Samari
We recently teamed up with our good friend and owner of General Quarters in Los Angeles to celebrate their 2 year anniversary by collaborating on an exclusive raw denim motorcycle vest, made of 15oz black Japanese selvedge denim from Nihon Menpu mills. The fit is the same as our Supply Jackets – we kept the deep hand warmer style pockets and hidden right chest pocket, but added a new patch pocket with flap closure on the left chest, giving this vest an unique look. Just like all Rogue Territory products, this denim vest was built with function in mind. We opened up the armholes to allow for ease of movement and room for layering. Whether you ride or not, this moto-vest is a perfect addition to your denim collection. PRE-ORDER is available on our site, or at General Quarters on 153 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, Calif. (323-937-5391) through March 18, 2013. Blair is an avid rider and his passion for motorcycles and motorcycle culture comes through in the thoughtful design and curation of his store and products. We thought it only fitting that we make something that was inspired by his love of motorcycles.
We recently chatted with WE ARE THE MARKET about our upcoming Autumn/Winter 2013 collection that we'll be showcasing at (capsule) in Las Vegas February 19-20. This will be our first time showing at (capsule) and we're very excited to share what we have coming down the pipeline this year. You can expect all new raw & washed denim (of course), as well as new shirts, jackets (including a brand new varsity-style jacket!), denim work shirts, and more. Thanks to WE ARE THE MARKET for featuring us on their site. You can check out the full interview HERE.
Our longtime supporter, and an all around rad dude, Nate Remington of TheBasicsofMan recently snapped some styled shots that we just had to share. In the City he spent some time hanging out with another longtime supporter of ours, Dillon Burke of Thread&Salt and took some pics of him in his 1 year old pair of RK ISCs. Both of these guys have great personal style and POVs and we definitely suggest that you follow them if you aren't already. ***All photos taken by Nate Remington of The Basics of Man
This week we set out with good friends Farhad Samari (photographer extraordinaire) and Blair Lucio (owner of General Quarters) to do some shooting for our 2013 lookbook. We started the day in our own backyard, wandered around the neighborhood here in Atwater Village, and eventually made our way to DTLA. Check out some behind-the-scenes shots featuring some new product for both Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter that we can't wait to share with you all. Look out for new raw denim (of course), some washes, new denim work shirts, denim supply jackets, oxfords and more.
We love our customers, mainly because they are some of the best human beings on the face of the planet. We especially love our Instagram followers, they are the most genuine, supportive (not to mention stylish) and communal people out there on the interwebs. We can't thank all of our customers and followers enough for all the tremendous support you've shown us this year. Thank you for sharing in this journey with us. To round out 2012, here are some of our favorite hashtagged images, narrowing it down to these might have been one of the toughest things we've done all year! Wishing you and your loved ones a very happy new year, see ya on the other side. - RGT Team (Karl, Leslie & Gusface Killah)
We're Texas-bound this holiday season and will be joining gracious hosts The Class Room for a Rogue Territory Trunk Show on Dec 16th, 2012 at their Houston store. If you are in the area, we'd love for you to join us! Event starts at 4pm, hope to see you there. The Class Room, 2534 Amherst, Houston TX 77005
A customer of ours, Bryson, spends about 6 months every year out at sea on a commercial fishing boat. He fishes wild black cod (one of our personal favorites) off the coast of Alaska. Majority of the fish he catches are shipped directly to Japan. Bryson recently shared some amazing pictures of him at work in our Natural Herringbone Work Shirt (not to mention the freshest black cod we've ever had!) We love when customers share their stories and travels with us, so if you have any, please email them to firstname.lastname@example.org. We'd love to feature them!
We are very excited to launch our new collaboration with IDC (International Design Collective) today! We're calling it a 7-pocket "Stealth" jean, made in both our Stanton (slim straight) and SK (skinny) fits. Below are some details and pics of these beefy joints. Thanks to Blair from General Quarters for looking so rad in these (he's wearing the Black Stanton IDC jeans). 15oz black selvedge Japanese raw denim from Nihon Menpu Mills Hidden 7th pocket behind leather patch Hidden signature pen pocket in right back pocket Branded matte black button on waistband Unbranded black open-face rivets Hand silk-screened 8oz natural herringbone pocket bags Fly extension cut on selvedge Coin pocket cut on selvedge Belt loops sewn into the waistband Hand branded leather patch Handmade in downtown Los Angeles
"Every modern man needs a pair of black jeans." We couldn't agree more. Big thanks to Valet for featuring our newest collaboration, a 15oz black selvedge Japanese denim jean in our Stanton and SK fits. This time we teamed up with IDC (International Design Collective) to bring this 7 pocket stealthy goodness to market. Check out Valet's feature here. For those in the Vancouver or Toronto areas, Dutil will be hosting two release events on Friday 11/16 (Vancouver store) and Saturday 11/17 (Toronto store) with Karl Thoennessen (owner/designer) of Rogue Territory. We'd love for you to swing by and say hi!
Finally, the weather has cooled off a bit in LA. For the first time in many months, walking the Rose Bowl Flea Market wasn't a completely miserable sweat-fest. Here's some things that caught our eye, mainly vintage labels.