What better way to celebrate the launch of our proprietary 15.25oz indigo selvedge denim than with a Fade Contest? Check out the contest details below, along with images of Karl's personal field-tested pieces. CONTEST // This is a one year long Instagram fade contest. All submissions must be hash-tagged with #RGT15ozFC to be considered. After the one year period is up, we will select our Top 5 candidates, and will post their image on our Instagram handle (@RGT). Prizes will be awarded to the images that receive the highest amount of Likes. TIMELINE // Contest start: NOW Contest end: March 30th, 2018 RULES // Contest includes 15oz Stanton, 15oz SK, 15oz Strider, and 15oz Supply Jacket. Only images submitted using the hashtag #RGT15ozFC will be considered. You can enter the contest at anytime during the one year period. Only naturally occurring fades will be accepted. So don't use sand paper, bleach or other agents to speed up the fading of your jeans. You're meant to enjoy this journey, not rush to the finish line! PRIZES // 1st Place: $400 RGT e-Gift Certificate + Goodie Bag 2nd Place: $250 RGT e-Gift Certificate + Goodie Bag 3rd Place: $100 RGT e-Gift Certificate + Goodie Bag Goodie Bags will be sponsored by some of friends, including @stancesocks @monstersoutside @beholderbadges @heritageleatherco to name a few! Best of luck, we look forward to seeing your 15oz evolutions! 15oz Strider // 1.5 Years, 2 cold water soaks 15oz Strider // 1.5 Years, 2 cold water soaks 15oz Strider // 1.5 Years, 2 cold water soaks 15oz Stanton // 8 Months, no soaks 15oz Stanton 8 Months, no soaks 15oz Supply Jacket 3 Months, no soaks 15oz Supply Jacket 3 Months, no soaks 15oz Stanton, new 15oz Stanton, new 15oz Stanton, new
The 2nd drop of our Spring / Summer 2016 collection will be launching online on Thursday, April 21. This season, we're excited to introduce more proprietary fabrics that we've been developing exclusively in Japan. These custom fabrics include a new light-to-mid weight neppy Japanese flannel with a great irregular weave / slub texture and a buttery soft hand. It will be available in 2 color ways in a brand-new shirt style called the Hunter Shirt. We'll also be releasing our Coach's Jacket, a classic American sportswear staple that we've put our own spin on. Instead of the traditional light-weight poly/nylon fabric and snap closures typically seen on coach's jackets, we swapped out the outer with a sturdy and functional 10 oz American water-repellent canvas. RGT branded tack buttons and bias tape throughout the interior are just a few of the incorporated details, resulting in a jacket with hints of Americana and sportswear, but has a sophistication that takes the beloved coach's jacket to the next level. Will be available in 3 colorways: Burgundy, Bluebird and Black (limited quantities). Last but not least, at the end of April, we will be releasing 2 new short-sleeve Work Shirts in a 6 oz raw selvedge hemp/cotton hank-dyed chambray that feels like a crunchy linen. Work Shirts will be available in 2 colorways: hank-dyed Natural Indigo and hank-dyed Natural Charcoal. Releasing April 21st - Hunter Shirt (Tan/Navy and Blue/Black): $195 - Coach's Jacket (Burgundy, Bluebird and Black): $200 - Black Canvas Water-Repellent 5-Panel Hat: $60 Releasing End of April - Short sleeve selvedge Work Shirt (Natural Indigo and Natural Charcoal): $215 Available Now (1st Drop) - Ridgeline Vest (Pine and ISC): $215 - Ranger Jacket ISC: $265 - Ripstop Safari Trousers: $185 - Ecru Jumper Shirt: $180 - Blue Chambray Popover: $175 WORDS & IMAGES // Leslie Yeung
The time has come! The RGT Slub Faders Contest is coming to an end. If you are participating, here's what you need to know: END DATE: Saturday, October 10, 2015 at midnight PST HOW TO ENTER: Beginning Sunday, October 11, 2015 - submit your best final fade photos on Instagram by using the hashtag #RGTSLUBFADERS You will have until Monday, October 12, 2015 at Noon PST to submit your photos. You can submit multiple photos, but it's all about quality, not quantity! Please be sure you are a public profile or else your submission will not be seen and is invalid. JUDGING: The panel of judges will choose their Top 5 favorite photos and these will be posted on @rogueterritory Instagram account on Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at Noon PST. The photo with the most Likes by Friday, October 16, 2015 at Noon PST will be the 1st place winner! 2nd and 3rd place winners will be the photos with the 2nd and 3rd highest Likes, respectively. Winners will be announced shortly thereafter on the @rogueterritory Instagram account. JUDGES: Karl of @rogueterritory, Ben of @snakeoilprovisions and Dan of @ewingdrygoods will choose the Top 5 photos. You guys in IG-land will be the Final Judges based on your Likes, so double-tap wisely! JUDGING CRITERIA: The panel of judges are looking for uniqueness in the overall fade and wear patterns. PRIZES: 1st PLACE:$250 Gift Certificate from Rogue Territory, 2nd PLACE: $125 Gift Certificate from Ewing Dry Goods, 3rd PLACE: $75 Gift Certificate from Snake Oil Provisions. MOST IMPORTANTLY: This is a social media contest that is designed to be fun for our active Instagram community! With that said, any negative comments will be deleted. #DONTBEADICK. By hashtagging your images with #RGTSLUBFADERS you are consenting to us re-posting your image. This contest was conceived and started by our dedicated customers Joe Stancato and Shelby Denham. Thank you guys for your continued enthusiasm and support of the brand!
We were first introduced to artist William Godwin through some amazing illustrations he created for an exclusive release we did with Need Supply Co. called Wash Me Over back in the Spring of 2011. After meeting him in person and following his work through various outlets, we were convinced that we had to work with him again. For some time now we've wanted to incorporate our love for spaghetti westerns, the old west and gunslingers into original artwork that we could feature through several mediums. The concept fit perfectly with our Keep The Trade Alive artist series, and we knew William was the man to bring this concept to life. The "Old West" Concept in Detail // The artwork was specifically created for the pocket lining of our new tapered-leg fit, the Strider, that we'll be releasing this September in our signature 14.5oz indigo selvedge denim. It would tell the story of a outlaw gunslinger who is posted up in a town preparing to fight a gang of rogue bandits. William's artwork for the pocket bags blew us away, and we decided we had to showcase the graphics through a few special products, available on our site now. William has printed limited edition hand-signed and numbered 11" x 17" posters, and we're offering 2 new exclusive t-shirts that are printed on high-quality Velva Sheen t-shirts. We are huge fans of Velva Sheen tees and are excited to be able to work with them for this project. The best part of these Keep The Trade Alive projects is the creative process and the sharing of ideas in a truly collaborative nature. We asked William to document his creative process as he was working out his ideas, you can explore his process below. Enjoy! ------------- Working with RGT was a dream of mine for few years, so when Karl asked if I was interested in doing a project in the vein of the classic-spaghetti-western-cowboy-of-the-west, I was ecstatic. He really liked the drawings in my sketchbook, which was super refreshing and terrifying to hear. My sketchbook has no rules: its a “no pencils aloud”, no going back, Martial Law kind of place. The Wild West if you will. Stoked and terrified we set off. I started with some super scratchy sketches for the pocket bags; I didn’t want to work this stage too hard because I wanted to leave some fun for myself in the final. We decided to run with these ideas. This is where I knew it was going to be a stellar collaboration and knew he was going to trust me to just do my thing. Along with watching some good ‘ol Clint Eastwood movies and some other classics, I set up a drawing session / photo shoot with a friend of mine, who agreed to only pose for good beer and not my proposed $20 an hour. Luckily he had everything an authentic cowboy would have just hanging on the walls in his house “ which gun do you want me to hold?” There were about half a dozen to choose from.. This was the experimental stage. I thought maybe I could knock the entire drawing out from life, since 90% of my sketchbook is life drawings. I made 2 drawings from life, trying to add my own sort of feel and tone to the drawing and not just make a drawing of my friend. If anything, I was supplying myself with a vocabulary. I printed out some of my favorite poses and kept the life drawings along side me in hopes to keep some of the life from those drawings and just went at it in my Moleskine. The easiest thing to do is to overwork a drawing and lose what makes it special. I finished the drawing and made a much smaller drawing of some bandits / outlaws for the opposing pocket bag to tie in a little storyline. I immediately jumped into the hand drawn type with some Sumi and a brush. The texture that came through the type was totally accidental; oils from my hands causing the ink to pool and push away from the semi-porous paper. I loved it. From there it just grew organically into it's own thing and just experimenting with what canvas this artwork would lend itself best to. Easily the best collaborations I have been a part of. I was deeply grateful for a chance to work with RGT. Crossing my fingers for more. WORDS & IMAGES // William Godwin
Through collaborations and exclusive releases with friends and artists, we strive to bring an awareness to those who take pride in perfecting their trade. Keep The Trade Alive is our way of featuring talented craftsmen and women who inspire us through their passion and dedication to their creative fields. Our most recent project is a video we worked on with The Kindling Co. to showcase four Rogue Territory supporters who embody the Keep The Trade Alive spirit. https://vimeo.com/131610607 FEATURING // Chris Jenkins (Monsters Outside) - wearing Desert Wash Supply Jacket, 14.5oz Over-Dyed Indigo Stanton Dr. Woo (Shamrock Social Club) - wearing Indigo Selvedge Canvas Officer Trousers Robert Siegel (RS Handmade) - wearing 14.5oz Stanton James Melinat (Reigns Studio) - wearing 15oz Stealth SK, Ridgeline Supply Jacket
Grey Japanese Chambray Short Sleeve Jumper Shirt We fell in love with this fabric and color the moment we saw it. The warm grey has a hint of green and beige undertones which makes this fabric standout against other more conventional grey fabrics, and allows it to be wearable with almost everything. The other standout qualities are the weight and irregular texture in the weave. Both give this fabric so much character, making this piece that much more special. 10oz Japanese Bronze Blue Line Selvedge Twill Officer Trousers We were immediately drawn to the warm Bronze color of this twill and the amazing royal blue thread color used for the selvedge ID. Both of these details make this fabric super unique, and the color of the selvedge compliments the Bronze color perfectly. The feel of this fabric is spot on for any season. Heavy enough so that the twill feels substantial but soft and comfortable right off the bat. All these details combine to make this trouser the perfect addition to anyone's wardrobe. Dark Supply Jacket - 13.5oz Japanese Indigo Warp x Black Weft Red Line Selvedge Denim We've been using this beautiful Indigo Warp x Black Weft denim for nearly 4 years, and we continue to be amazed by its fading potential. Though this denim looks super inky and near black in its raw state, because of the deep Indigo Warp x Black Weft, it quickly transforms into a deep rich indigo color with light wear. In addition to this great color, the warp yarn in this denim brings a subtle vertical slub to the denim which adds so much depth in character to this denim. It was a no-brainer to use this denim for our tried and true Supply Jacket. The application of black thread keeps the overall look of the jacket understated, allowing the fit of the jacket and the denim to speak for themselves. The details that make the Supply Jacket unique shine through only as the denim transforms and lightens in color. Pieces in this featured look include: Dark Supply Jacket - 13.5oz Japanese indigo warp x black weft red line selvedge denim Grey chambray short sleeve Jumper shirt - fabric from Japan Bronze Officer Trousers - 10oz Japanese blue line selvedge twill Salt Optics - James frame / Smoke Grey finish 70s Converse All Star Chuck '70s - Black Hi WORDS // Karl Thoennessen IMAGES // Leslie Yeung
Let me preface this post by saying, my passion for motorcycles is only skin deep. I see a pretty bike, and I double tap. I can appreciate the balance between design and performance, but I don't know a damn thing about the inner workings of the machine, I don't ride and I'm not posting this because motorcycles in general are "so hot right now". That being said... I wanted to share some images of The Mighty Motor Bavarian Scrambler, shot by creative director/photographer extroidinaire, Sinuhe Xavier of The Mighty Motor and Overland Journal. Sinuhe threw his Waxed Canvas Supply Jacket into the shoot which we think pairs nicely with this beautiful bike. This post is strictly for sharing the images, which Sinuhe (the man behind the lens) was nice enough to share with us. If you're interested in learning the more nuanced details of this completely custom build, head over to revzilla.com and read Sean McDonald's review. We're stoked to have been included in such a rad project! Enjoy! WORDS // Karl Thoennessen IMAGES // ALL PHOTOS ARE SHOT BY SINUHE XAVIER // PLEASE GIVE CREDIT IF YOU ARE GOING TO SHARE THESE IMAGES
We're proud to present the first delivery of our Fall/Winter offering. As we move into the colder months we wanted to focus on 1 of 2 signature pieces we've developed. The first piece as seen below is a completely unique and therefore super special. We collaborated with storied Faribault Woolen Mills to develop a wholly unique 100% wool blanket based off of their Cabin Stripe blanket to incorporate into our signature outerwear style, the Supply Jacket. This jacket features a fully wool lined body, wool lined hand warmer style patch pockets and satin lined sleeves. To top it off, we used a rugged 10 oz waxed canvas that provides ample warmth and protection from the elements. If that wasn't enough, all fabrics used to make this jacket are sourced and made right here in the USA! Seen below - our all new 5oz indigo warp x natural weft Japanese Chambray Long Sleeve Jumper shirt and all new 16.75oz Slub SKs. The indigo warp x natural weft Blue Chambray Jumper shirt has a great brushed finish to it which coupled with contrast navy cats-eye buttons and natural thread offer up a great example of how we play the line between work wear and casual wear. Check out the amazing texture in our all-new denim: the 16.75oz Slub! Its warp yarns are dyed in vats of pure indigo, which gives us that rich deep indigo color. We think this image illustrates pretty well why we call it "Slub". Keep an eye out for that vertical fading, it's pretty unreal! The indigo warp x indigo weft 5oz Japanese chambray Long Sleeve Jumper is kind of a game changer. Not only is it one of our favorite styles, but the fabric speaks for itself! As you gaze at its awesomeness, you'll notice that there are so many different varying shades of indigo. The shirt really takes on a life of its own as it's worn and washed (cold soaks are recommended). Tonal everything as not to take away from its beauty. This Fall, we introduce a twist to our signature 14.5oz pure indigo dyed Japanese selvedge denim from Nihon Menpu Mills. We took our best-selling jean and submerged it in a vat of indigo, then rinsed and dried it in a massive oven. This is a garment-dyed jean, each has been dyed by hand and has its own unique shade of indigo. No two pairs are alike. WORDS // Karl Thoennessen IMAGES // Leslie Yeung
As we move into Fall we wanted to focus on introducing a heavier weight denim. This particular denim is 16.75oz selvedge denim made from pure indigo dyed ring-spun cotton, woven in Okayama, Japan. To test the wear and fading qualities of this denim, I have been wearing these pretty exclusively (about 5-6 times a week) for 4 months. In its raw state, this slub denim feels sturdy but not extremely rigid. This is due to a lighter starching process on the yarn before weaving, as well as a "looser" open-weave construction. The Warp yarn was spun irregularly to create a beautiful slubby texture throughout the denim, which has led to amazing vertical fading and contrast in very little time. NOTES - 4 months in: I've definitely been putting these jeans through a lot. Nothing extreme, but lots of sweaty 90+ degree days in the work shop, lifting boxes, rolls of denim etc. and they have only proven to get better with age. I have yet to see thinning in any of the high stress areas: knees, seat, crotch. The slub has really started to become more noticeable and the base color has maintained the original dark indigo color. There has been very little crocking (bleeding) that I've noticed and I would say that they've stretched about 0.5" in the waist. FIT: I wear a size 30 in my Stantons, which are pretty fitted from the start. I chose to go with a 31 in the SK to get the nice taper of the SK but wanted to keep a looser top-block. I'm not a fan of super tight jeans whether they be skinny or slim straight. I haven't hemmed these, so they're double cuffed with about a 31" inseam which gives me a little stacking. RELEASE DATE: We expect to have these available to most of our Stockists and on our site by mid-September 2014, retail price $245. By then I'll be about 8 months in and I will definitely post more updates before they are released. FINAL NOTES: I believe these are a great addition to our growing denim collection. I specifically chose this denim because it does not compete directly with any of our current offerings, not just in weight but in weave construction and base color. I can't wait for others to be as in love with this denim as I am! WORDS + IMAGES // Karl Thoennessen
A customer of ours, Andrew R., sent in his 14.5oz SKs to be hemmed awhile ago and needless to say, we were impressed by the amount of work he's put into these. NAME // Andrew R. LOCATION // Gainesville, Florida DENIM AGE // One year and two, almost three months HOW MANY WASHES // Two cold washes - one by hand, the other by machine FIRST WASH // First wash was after 11 months of consistent, nearly-daily wear NICKNAME // "Eugene the Raw Denim Jean" - coined by Andrew's girlfriend COMMENTS // 4 years ago we fell in love with this particular selvedge denim from Nihon Menpu. For this particular denim Nihon Menpu Mills vat dyes their own warp yarns with pure indigo dye in house. For us this was a level of commitment to the craft and their product that we have not experienced anywhere else. By working with pure indigo dyes Nihon Menpu is ensuring that this denim will have a beautiful base color and that the indigo color will always vary slightly throughout the warp yarn due to the nature of the dying process. This will ensure that the denim will never be consistent and that is what we love about. We believe that each pair of jeans should be a unique and personal project and journey impacted by the wearer. Andrew's jeans are perfect example of this. The pure indigo gives amazing variation in color throughout the jean. The subtle slub in both the warp and weft yarn help the crosshatched texture in the weave to stand out but not dominate the overall look. It's all in the details.
We had the fortunate opportunity to sponsor a fantastic new print publication called The Collective Quarterly, put together by our friends Jesse, Seth and Jay. The Collective Quarterly is a magazine about exploring. Each issue follows select craftspeople to an offbeat location, with the backdrop of the inaugural Issue 0 in Marfa, TX - a tiny West Texas town that is rich in modern art and architecture. They headed out with some talented and creative individuals, including our good friend/photographer/videographer extraordinaire Duncan Wolfe (who filmed our Paris elopement in 2012!). We outfitted the crew with some of our favorite Rogue Territory pieces, below are some inspiring images from the trip that capture what this magazine is all about: Exploration and Discovery. Issue 0: Marfa is available for purchase, or do yourself a favor and subscribe for a year's worth of enriching writing and imagery. WORDS // Leslie Yeung IMAGES // The Collective Quarterly
For the second installment of our Keep The Trade Alive poster series, we teamed up again with designer Ben Deter to build on the concept and design from the indigo-dyed posters we released last Fall. This time, we decided to explore a new material and color, as well as introduce a new design. Much like our core fits, the Stanton and SK that change fabrics from season to season, we decided to approach the posters in the same way. Linocut Process The posters were printed using linoleum cuts. Linocut is a printmaking technique, a variant of woodcut in which a sheet of linoleum is used for the relief surface. The design was cut into the linoleum surface with a V-shaped chisel, with the raised (uncarved) areas representing a reversal (mirror image) of the parts to show printed. Dying Process A 7 oz duck canvas was used to compliment the new array of Spring goods that feature the material. It is light and thin enough to print on and easily takes on the dye. Ben created a custom dye mix to produce a beautiful antique gold color. The color plays off the hue of the camel canvas used on the new Supply Jacket, Camel Stantons and Camel RK Trousers, while referencing the fresh vibrant colors of spring. All 40 posters were cut and dyed in batches then rinsed and left to dry overnight. Printing Process The linoleum sheet was inked with a roller and then impressed onto the canvas. Each sheet of canvas was printed using a custom mix of navy oil-based ink and then allowed to dry for a week. Because each one is printed separately by hand, no two prints are alike. Using linocut and canvas together really allow for a unique, handcrafted product that looks as if it has been aged over time. A huge thank you to Ben and his friends Garret and Adam for their hard work on this project! These limited edition canvas posters are available online for $50. Each is hand-numbered and signed by Ben Deter. WORDS // Ben Deter IMAGES // Ben Deter
Our Spring / Summer 2014 collection is all about the color palette. All the colors are complimentary across tops and bottoms, making it easy to mix styles and colors to build multiple outfits. Also after multiple years of testing and many iterations, we're excited to introduce all new styles to the Rogue Territory line up. The Field Jacket is our interpretation of a vintage light weight hunting jacket we came across while diving for vintage clothes a couple years back. We've made a few modifications to give it a fresh feel, like a slimmer fit, modified pocket design, a club style collar and accent bartacks. Some great additional details are the "pocket within a pocket" on the left chest and hidden phone pocket in the larger left flap pocket. Overall it's a versatile and functional piece that is perfect as your primary jacket in the cool Spring and Summer nights or even as an additional layer as the temperature drops below 50 degrees. We're introducing a new Pop-over shirt, which is a classic design with some slight design twists. Highlights include triple-needle chainstitched side seams, collar stand extension, and what has quickly become our signature chest pocket design. And of course the fabric! A beautiful textured brown chambray from Japan with a nice substantial weight to it. The first release of Spring / Summer 2014 will be available on our online store on 2.25.14 Keep eye out for the next release which will include 3 all new denim washes available in the Stanton, SK and Supply Jackets! We'll also be releasing Shorts in the 2nd drop, available sometime in March! WORDS // Karl Thoennessen IMAGES // Leslie Yeung
Many of you have asked what the Dark Stanton & Dark SK denim will fade like, so we reached out to our loyal customer and talented photographer Long Yau who has been wearing his Dark Stantons for about 9 months now. The denim is a 13.5oz dark indigo selvedge denim from Kurabo Mills in Japan. Another common question is if this is an indigo warp/indigo weft or indigo warp/black weft. This is a indigo warp x black weft denim. With a black weft they bottom of the denim is black. As you can see from Long's photos, the jeans fade to a beautiful blue shade since the indigo warp is the dominant color. We will have restock on all sizes of the Dark Stanton & Dark SK available in March. Long is also wearing our 14.5oz Indigo Supply Jacket, and for only 3 months of wear, it's coming along very nicely. This supply jacket, along with the 15oz Stealth supply jacket, will be making a comeback again this Fall. We'd like to give a BIG THANKS to Long for putting together these images and for his continued support of our brand! IMAGES // Long Yau
We're excited to announce the newest collaboration in our Keep The Trade Alive: Artist Series. Introducing the Natural Chromexcel Leather Card Case with Wool Blanket Inlay by Hollows Leather. This limited edition exclusive wallet is handmade by Nicholas Hollows in Minneapolis, Minnesota, available in limited quantities on our webstore for $135. Nick is a true craftsman. He takes the time to perfect his craft and makes simplicity and smart design look easy. About a year and a half ago, we started throwing around ideas about incorporating some fabric that we had into one of his pieces. A couple prototypes and lots of testing later, Nick came up with this inlay design card case combining this amazing wool blanket fabric and beautiful natural chromexcel leather from Horween. The mix of the texture in the wool and the rich color of the chromexcel makes this a truly special piece. We've been an admirer of Nick's work for years now, so we're excited to share more of his story. Here's a glimpse into the mind of the man behind Hollows Leather: Who or what would you say are the major influences on your work? I'm inspired by anyone pursuing their craft just for the sake of it. I'm much more interested in getting good at something than I am in building a brand or growing a business. A lot of my heroes are bicycle frame builders. I like the incredible details and understated style of Hufnagel, the no-bullshit practicality of ANT, and the impressive technique of Goodrich among many many others. I also have a soft spot for anyone who has a design that has remained unchanged for decades, like the Red Wing 877, Filson Cruiser, or the Duluth portage packs. It takes a lot of courage, especially in modern markets, to stick with a proven design and resist the urge to "innovate" constantly. How did Hollows Leather come about? I found a box of scrap leather and tools in my in-laws' garage, which had belonged to my wife's uncle. He was a leather hobbyist and a cop who died trying to stop a pharmacy robbery before either of us were born. My first leather project was a really basic wallet, and it actually went pretty well. It was ugly, but it was functional and I enjoyed the work, so I started growing my tool collection and made some more things for myself and for friends. Eventually I posted some work online and started getting requests for custom projects, and it grew from there. Why leather? What about working with leather do you enjoy most? I don't exactly know why leather. I feel a bit like leather chose me. It's a fun medium, but I think I could be just as happy working with something else, and if I ever have more time for hobbies I hope to try my hand at cloth, wood, metal, maybe even glass. I like that the ceiling is really high with leather. I've been making something almost every day for going on 7 years and I feel like I'm just getting started. I'll never run out of new things to learn. I also like how versatile leather is. I've barely scratched the surface. There's a whole world of skills and techniques around garments, footwear and luggage that I haven't really explored yet. Do you have a favorite leather or tannery you like to work with? Most of my leather comes from either Horween in Chicago, or Wickett & Craig in Pennsylvania. They both have great products, but the real challenge is picking the right leather for the right project. I'm a big sucker for Natural Chromexcel from Horween and Wickett & Craig's harness leather. I often wish that I could combine aspects of those two to create the "perfect" leather. What does your creative process look like and where do you find inspiration? My process involves a lot of crappy napkin sketches and slow, iterative experiments. I usually feel like I get 90% of a design right on the first try, but the last 10% is really important. It's slow, with a lot of really small tweaks and adjustments over time, but sometimes making a flawed design and putting it to use is the only way to discover where the improvement needs to be made, so it's worth it in the long run. I think the best designs come from necessity, and that may be why I'm so interested in history. I'm crazy about garment design from the Gold Rush, Great Depression, and WWII eras. There's a lot of inspiration to be found looking back through history. If you had to choose a favorite piece in your collection, whether it be something you bought/found/inherited or made, what would it be? I have a pair of custom White's made from Natural Chromexcel that are like a trusty sidekick. I have a stylus and modeling spoon from my original inherited collection of leather tools that's probably the most boring thing you could imagine, but I use it every day and can't live without it. I have a little cast bronze penrose triangle trinket that I made and usually have hidden in a coin pocket. Anything that carries some story, real or imagined, and just hangs around to remind you that life isn't mundane unless you let it be. When you're not making leather goods, what do you find pleasure in? I'm really into hiking, camping, cycling, reading, and combining those four things as often as possible. If I could do whatever I wanted all the time, I'd basically live like an adventurous hobbit. WORDS // Nicholas Hollows, Karl Thoennessen IMAGES // Nicholas Hollows
We're very excited to present our newest exclusive collaboration with Need Supply Co., a blanket-lined shawl collar version of our ever-popular Supply Jacket. This time the jacket is offered in a 13oz Dark Indigo Selvedge denim from Kurabo Mills, Japan. The Supply Jacket was first released exclusively with Need Supply at the Rogue Territory: Meet the Maker event hosted at Need Supply's Richmond, VA store in September 2012. Since that time, this style has quickly become a definitive piece on our collection. When we began discussing our next collaboration, we both saw the Supply Jacket as a great piece to experiment with. We've always wanted to make a blanket-lined jacket and this was the perfect opportunity to incorporate it into a staple element of our outerwear offering. Jacket Details // 2 exterior wool lined patch pockets Denim - 13.5oz Japanese red-line selvedge from Kurabo Mills Wool blanket lined body Japanese chambray lined sleeves Matte black branded buttons Available in limited quantities online at Need Supply and Rogue Territory webstores
We are very excited to share our newest project under our Keep The Trade Alive: Artist Series. This time, we've teamed up with Ben Deter, a designer who explores and practices the parallels between art, design and technology. Like Brian McMenamin, who we have collaborated with on several handkerchief designs over the years, Ben is a Rogue Territory customer. As we've come to know more and more of our customers through Instagram, we discover that many are very talented and passionate creatives who inspire us with the work they do. Ben had the idea to explore a Batik dying method to make hand-dyed indigo posters, inspired by an Instagram photo we posted of indigo-dyed wrapping paper. From there we collaborated on a poster design, featuring our "Keep The Trade Alive" slogan and our signature mountains graphic. Ben comments: I love the simplicity of the design, particularly the way the mountain and typography emerge from the sea of blue surrounding them. Ben used this amazing "slubby" Japanese kuzu paper to tie it back to the Japanese denim use in many of our products. The result is a poster with a rough texture and high quality feel, yet delicate and soft at the same time. THE dying process // To transfer the design to paper, Ben simply traced it using a lightbox. Then each letter and design element was hand-painted with melted soy wax, creating a barrier to the indigo dye. Next, each poster was individually hand-dipped into a bucket of indigo dye, and this is where the true wonder of indigo presented itself. When the paper is pulled out of the dye, it first appears a greenish-yellow color, slowly turns green-blue, and finally indigo blue. Some posters were dipped once, others twice, and some were painted with the dye using a foam brush, giving a nice variety of washes and variations. The indigo dyed posters were then hung to dry overnight. The next day, the posters were sandwiched between two pieces of newsprint, and the wax was heated using an iron. The melted wax gradually soaks into the newsprint, and you are left with the paper you started with. The iron also helps flatten everything out after the poster ripples from being soaked in indigo. The mountains were then filled in by hand using a white wax pencil in order to make them really pop off the indigo blue background and to give them a really nice hand-finished quality. A huge THANK YOU to Ben and his friends Adam and Chris for their hard work and creativity on this project, we are so pleased to offer this as part of our collaborative series. The limited edition posters are AVAILABLE ONLINE for $85, and only 10 were made. Each poster is hand-numbered and signed by Ben himself. WORDS // Ben Deter, Leslie Yeung IMAGES // Ben Deter
The Rogue Territory Indigo Work Trouser was the definitive product from our Inaugural Collection back in the Fall of 2009. This was the first pant we designed that was not a traditional 5 pocket jean. The design was meant to pay homage to work wear, denim's roots, and at the same time make it more modern and relevant for today. Our vision was to make a pant that a guy could wear with athletic shoes one day and work boots the next. We didn't want the pant to define the man, but rather the man to use the trousers to style it the way he chose. This is really our approach to everything we design. DESIGN NOTES // The loops with button closure on the front slash pockets are the most visible design details on the Indigo Work Trousers. When we were designing the denim trousers, we noticed that the pocket would pop up significantly when you sat down -- this was primarily due to the thickness of the denim. So we thought about ways to add a functional element that offered an option when sitting or standing to keep the pocket from popping up, while maintaining the sleek look of the trousers. After multiple prototypes, the result was the loop and button closure, the defining feature of this style. ADDITIONAL NOTE: The loop and button closure has 2 functions. 1) They keep the slash pockets closed (duh). 2) When the pockets are buttoned down, this actually makes the trousers sit higher on your hips because it tightens up the lap. Therefore you actually get 2 fits in one! The fully lined back pockets are the other distinguishable detail on these trousers. When you take a closer look, you'll notice that there's very little stitching on the pockets. This was intentional. We wanted to design a super clean back pocket that was reinforced, strong and functional, but still maintained the clean and understated look that makes these trousers so versatile. We refer to the Indigo Work Trouser as one of our most definitive designs because we believe it embodies the design ethos we strive for when designing a product for Rogue Territory. Our goal is always functionality and simplicity. We attempt to accomplish these two principals by studying construction details on vintage work wear and military garments. Then we ask ourselves, "How do we maintain the amazing functionality and essence that these details embody but make it more versatile and wearable for today's rad dudes and dudettes?" Well, the only way to accomplish this is in the drafting of the pattern. This allows us to break the design down, and once we have the building blocks of the product laid out in, we can then begin to piece it back together and build something that is simple and maintains the essence of the details that inspired us. WORDS // Karl Thoennessen IMAGES // Leslie Yeung
We're excited to introduce the newest article from Nihon Menpu Mills, woven in Okayama Prefecture, Japan. This is a beautiful 14.5oz Black Warp / White Weft selvedge denim. The weave construction and yarn character in this denim are the same as our signature 14.5oz pure indigo denim from Nihon Menpu. The cross-hatching in the denim lends to a really beautiful textured appearance. When working in black warp denim, it does take time and dedication, but when it starts to fade, you can achieve some really unique patterns and colors full of charcoal and brown highlights. As a new addition to the Rogue Territory product offering, we wanted to really showcase the beauty of this denim, so we've decided to finish the Black Warp in 2 different color threads. 1) Black Warp with camel thread (available in Stanton only) - the effect of camel colored thread on the Black Warp gives a more traditional look to the jeans. The texture of the Black Warp with the contrast of the thread enhances the overall character of the jeans over time. 2) Black Warp Tonal with black thread (available in Stanton and SK) - if you take a look at our collection, you'll notice that we like to offer tonal options in a lot of our products. We like to do this because we feel it is the best way to pay homage to the fabrics that we select. By using tonal thread, you allow the fabric to shine on its own. With no other colors or stitching to compete, the only thing to focus on is the beauty of the weave construction. Only as the denim begins to fade do you get to see all of our signature design and construction details such as our signature "lasso" stitch on the back pockets.
The inspiration for our FW13 collection started with a color pallet of swatches of fabrics we had. When we think about putting together a collection, the most important thing is that the colors and styles compliment each other. Anybody should be able to put together their own look and adopt their own style when choosing products from the collection. The Campus Jacket was the jump-off point for the collection. We've wanted to make a varsity jacket for a long time, it was just a matter of finding the right materials and colors. Once we locked down the concept for the jacket, all the other elements of the collection fell into place. We wanted to make sure that every pant and shirt added to collection could ultimately be worn with the Campus Jacket. When it comes to introducing new denim pieces, whether it be a Work Shirt, Supply Jacket, Stantons, SKs or RKs, it's always about choosing the right denim for the style. We always want the focus of the piece be put on the fabric itself - that should always be what people notice first. The design and construction details are the icing on the cake. Our excitement for creating products stems from the amazing fabrics we get to work with. Each piece of the collection has elements from work wear, vintage military, and American sportswear classics. Our whole approach is to keep some elements and cut others out in order to design pieces that are relevant and modern, but look and feel like those vintage garments we all love. Photography by Farhad Samari, featuring Blair from General Quarters.
For our latest web exclusive release, we've chosen an inky dark blue 8oz twill from Kaihara Mills in Japan. This beautiful fabric was not only chosen for its deep indigo color, but also for the unique light blue and cream colored stripes running through the fabric. Our signature triple needle chain-stitched work shirt was the perfect style for this fabric. The use of tonal thread makes the shirt feel more contemporary while still incorporating all the utilitarian features that make this shirt feel so substantial. The fabric will fade slowly over time. Don't expect to see electric blue whiskers though, the yarn is heavily saturated with dye, so it'll take time for you to see any contrast. We launched this exclusive work shirt at Denim Bruin in San Francisco, hosted by our friends at AB Fits. Thanks to everyone who stopped by and picked one up. For those not in the Bay Area, the work shirt is available for $185, while limited supply lasts! Photography by Farhad Samari
The Safari Short has been a staple of the Rogue Territory collection for a few seasons now. It was originally inspired by standard issue military trousers for the infantry personnel stationed in Vietnam. When designing, our approach is always one of pulling inspiration from many references, combining them and then simplifying. The Safari Short is a perfect example of this. The gusseted back pockets, the defining detail of the short, were pulled from a 1930s work shirt chest pocket. We mixed that gusseted pocket with the distinct front patch pocket of the infantry pant. When combined, the 2 details make for a super functional and very subtle design. When we started talking to the guys (Jesse and Jay) of the Coveted Man about their trip to Marfa, Texas and how they wanted to collaborate on a product inspired by that trip, we immediately started talking about shorts. Marfa in June can be hot, shorts are a must. The Safari Short was an obvious choice, but we wanted to do something to make it special -- to incorporate something that could be pulled from the Texan landscape. So we started talking patterns and how to incorporate them into the shorts. The end result was a custom pattern inspired by the traditional Navajo woven blankets that are a huge part of the mid-western culture and have been produced in Arizona, New Mexico and parts of Texas for over 200 years. To keep the clean aesthetic of the short we decided that the print was not going to be the main focus but used more as an accent. Applying the mid-western print is not easy. To print the 4 colors in the pattern, each color had to be lined up and screen printed separately. To have the pattern pop, we used a plastisol ink which is pretty bright initially, but after a few wears starts to fade perfectly. We’re really excited with the final product and feel that it fit in perfectly with the Marfa adventure. Photos by The Coveted Man
We recently teamed up again with our good friends at Need Supply Co. to release an exclusive summer-inspired collaboration called "Wash Me Over". This limited edition capsule collection includes 3 signature pieces in a beautiful washed out 6oz Japanese selvedge chambray from Kaihara mills. Our classic Jumper Shirt, Field Jacket and Officer Trousers have been enzyme washed and hand-distressed, so each garment in this collection is unique. Wash Me Over was inspired by work, wear and the passing of time. Each piece is meant to feel like it has its own story to tell through the functional and subtle details to the faded colors and well-worn feel of the fabric. I wanted this collection to feel familiar but new at the same time. Below are some images from Need Supply's summer lookbook titled Nowhere Fast, featuring the Field Jacket and Officer Trousers. SHOP COLLECTION NOW Photos by Ryan Plett
Our Spring/Summer 2013 collection incorporates a little bit of new and a little bit of the familiar. We brought back popular pieces, such as the Dark Indigo Supply Jacket in 10oz selvedge denim and the Raindrop Camo print, while introducing some new short sleeve chambray shirts, and two washes in our classic Stanton and SK jeans, a first-ever for Rogue Territory. The color palette is neutral, and each piece was designed to pair well with anything in our product line-up. Photography // Farhad Samari